24 Hours in Montenegro

Perast.  Start your morning at an amazing town with almost the same number of churches as number of inhabitants. Here you will enjoy the beautiful scenery and architecture of this old historical town. Between the 13th and 18th centuries, Perast belonged to Venice. The most beautiful buildings were constructed under the period of the Republic of Venice in the 17th and 18th centuries when Perast was at its peak. The Parish Church in Perast was built in 1740 by the Venetian architect, Giuseppe Beati, but only the church tower and the church vault remain. Visit the St. Nicholas Church, patron saints of the sailors. There are also two small islands in the close vicinity of Perast, St. George Island and Our Lady of the Rock Island that are an approximately 15-minute boat ride away.  Location: Perast, Montenegro.

Lunch Option 1: Hotel Conte.  This is a fantastic waterside restaurant in an idyllic and atmospheric little village. You couldn't ask for a more picturesque location.  Try the grilled squid stuffed with seafood risotto and a side of potato spinach.  Location:  Hotel Conte @42.486194,18.698076 (Perast waterfront).

Kotor.  You will enjoy walking through the maze of Kotor's medieval quarter, its bustling market and among beautiful Renaissance buildings. The well-preserved fortified walls of Kotor protect it from the sea and at nearly 3 miles long, it is considered one of the world’s historic values.  Visit the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, which was constructed in 1166 and built on the remains of a former temple from the 9th century.  You will see the remains from 14th century frescos and the valuable treasury with both local and Venetian golden works dating from the 14th to the 20th centuries.  Go to St. John’s Fortress for great views.  Location: Trg od Katedrala (Stari Grad), Kotor, Montenegro.

Lunch Option 2: Cesarica.  Cesarica serves excellent and cheap Dalmatian food. Try the cuttlefish risotto, it's amazing!  Address: Stari grad 375, Kotor Old Town, Kotor 85330.

Budva .  Besides the panoramic drive and walk through the Royal Park at Miločer, you have the opportunity to enjoy, in the shade of centennial olives, the view of St. Stefan, a scenic island hamlet from the fifteenth century which can be visited at your own pace at a later stage.  Visit the spiritual center of St. Stefan and Paštrovici - Monastery of Praskvica, and tour the lively Old City of Budva, where you can enjoy yourself in one of many cafes or see churches, museums and galleries or go shopping.  Location: Old Town, Njegoseva 4, Budva, 85310 Montenegro.

Sveti Stefan. Joined to the mainland by a stone walkway, the island resort of Sveti Stefan is the most iconic symbol of Montenegro. It looks like something out of a fairytale story, with those terracota rooftops contrasting against the blue of the Adriatic. A town on an island that’s been turned into a hotel- it’s pretty unique. Sveti Stefan is located in the center of Montenegro’s Adriatic coastline. The site incorporates two kilometers of coastline including the pink sandy beaches of Sveti Stefan, Miločer Beach and the famous Queen’s Beach.

Dinner: Vila Droga.  Vila Drago has perfect views of Sveti Stefan island and is characterized by palatable and copious seafood dishes and continental specialties. Rarely can one find first-class fish and perfect lobster on the same menu with barbecue made by a chef from Leskovac and genuine domestic cuisine dishes. And all that at very reasonable prices.  Location: Slobode 32, 85315 Sveti Stefan, Montenegro.

48 Hours in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik

DAY 1: DUBROVNIK

Breakfast. To start your day off right, go to the local bakery and get fresh bread, burek (pastry stuffed with meat or cheese) or krafne (croatian chocolate filled donuts) straight out of the oven. 

Ancient City Walls.  The Ancient City Walls is one of the best ways to see Dubrovnik. The wall encircles Old Town and runs for almost two kilometers. It takes about two hours to walk the whole thing. Along the west wall at the Pile Gate entrance, you can get a bird’s eye view of Onofrio Fountain and a clear view down Placa, the main street. To the other side is the Lovrijenac Fortress, which sits on its own rock high above the bright blue surf. Looking south, Dubrovnik’s famed terracotta tiles carpet the rooftops until they meet the Adriatic Sea at the south wall. At the Minceta Tower, it is possible to climb higher still and peak out of the turret at the city below.  Location: The main entrance is near the Pile Gate but there are three other entrances around the wall.

Old Town’s Placa Street.  Placa or Stradun Street is Old Town Dubrovnik's main street and runs from Pile Gate to Ploce Gate. It divides Dubronvik into northern and southern halves and is about 300 meters (1000 feet) long.  With its many cafés and restaurants, Placa Street is a fine spot to rest weary feet after a day of touring the various sites of Dubrovnik.  Placa Street was paved in 1468 and the limestone pavement is polished by use and shines bright, mirroring light, as if the surface was glass, not stone. Location: Pile Gate is at the west end.  Ploce Gate is at the east end.

Onofrio’s Fountain.  This fountain was named after the Neapolitan architect Onofrio de la Cava, who built it between 1438 and 1444. Of all of Dubrovnik’s numerous monuments, this is the most famous one.  Location: On Placa Street, near Pile Gate.

Franciscan Monastery and Its Old Pharmacy Museum.  The local name is Franjevacki Samostan.  Don’t confuse it with the Dominican Monastery. The Franciscan Monastery owns one of the most valuable libraries in Croatia. In addition, at the Old Pharmacy Museum, visitors can gain insight into the past by seeing decorated jars filled with mysterious contents and miscellaneous measurement devices with alembics and mortars. The pharmacy has been in use since this Monastery was built in 1317.  Location: On Placa Street, near Pile Gate.

Visia Dubrovnik 5D Teatrum.  This unusual new attraction takes visitors through the history of Dubrovnik by means of holograms, lasers and videos — what the owners call '5D'. The show runs for 35 minutes and is presented in six languages.  Location: St. Claire's Convent, Poljana Paska Milicevica 4 (near Pile Gate).

Lunch: Skola.  Skola bakes fresh bread and fills slabs of it with local cheese and delicious prsut (similar to prosciutto), which in Dalmatia is an absolute classic and inescapable star of every traditional special occasion menu.  It is often served on a platter with cheese and olives, and also offered in sandwiches.  Skola is also famous for its delicious strudels.  Location: Antuninska ulica 1 (in a narrow alley just north of Placa Street).

War Photo Limited.  Shocking but impressive, this modern gallery devotes two entire floors to war photojournalism. Past exhibitions include images from conflicts in Afghanistan, Iraq, the former Yugoslavia, Israel, Palestine, and Lebanon. Refreshingly impartial by Croatian standards, the message—that war is physically and emotionally destructive whichever side you are on—comes through loudly and clearly.  Location: Antuninska 6 (in a narrow alley just north of Placa Street).

Luza Square.  A focal point for tourists to the city, it is the home of the historic Sponza Palace, St. Blaise Church, and Bell Tower. The square also serves as the venue for processions and events throughout the year, such as Dubrovnik’s Summer Festival.  Location: At the east end of Placa Street.

Rector’s Palace.  Onofrio de la Cava designed Rector's Palace in 1435 but it is unlikely the building standing today is quite what the architect had in mind. The architecture of the Rector's Palace is a mix of late Gothic and early Renaissance styles.  In the summer, the pleasant central courtyard hosts classical music performances. Also found in Rector's Palace is the bust of Miho Pracat, a former rich merchant from the island of Lopud. The upstairs portion of Rector's Palace holds the city museum, which has many interesting exhibits of life during the time of the Republic of Ragusa. Location: Ulica Pred Dvorom 3 (near Luza Square).

Dubrovnik Cathedral and Its Treasury.  The Dubrovnik Cathedral is a beautiful Baroque building from the 12th century. It was designed by Andrea Buffalini of Rome. It is very interesting inside.  It has three aisles and three apses and is gorgeously decorated by paintings of Italian and Dalmation artists from the 16-18th centuries along with the Virgin Chair. The Cathedral Treasury owns several important relics of Christianity. The most famous one is a small part of the cross Jesus was crucified upon.  Location: Kneza Damjana Jude 1 (near Rector’s Palace and Gundulic Square).

Dominican Monastery.  The Dominican Monastery has a very interesting story relating to its construction. After the construction started in 1315 and the building and complex began to take form, the sheer size of the complex necessitated the movement outwards of the city walls. The monastery was heavily damaged in the earthquake of 1667, and was rebuilt to its former glory through the hard work of the city inhabitants. One of the architectural highlights of the Dominican Monastery is a late Gothic cloister. Michelozzo di Bartolomeo of Florence designed it in the 15th Century.  Location: Near Ploce Gate.

Drinks and Cliff Jumping at Buza Café.  At the end of the day, there is no better place than Buža Café to watch the sun set over the calm Adriatic, while leisurely enjoying a drink and perhaps planning where to have dinner that evening.  If you’re feeling a little adventurous, make sure you bring your bathing suit so that you can do a few of the many cliff jumps that are quite conveniently located at Buza. Usually, you’ll find a lot of the young locals jumping there throughout the day. Watch to see where they jump from, and where they land and you’ll be fine!  Location: Crijevićeva Ulica 9 (southern part of Old Town).

Dinner: Kamenice.  Kamenice (which means ‘oyster’) is a no-frills eatery, much loved by locals for its limited menu of unpretentious Dalmatian seafood dishes, prepared just as they would be at home. As it’s always busy, the fast turnover guarantees that everything is fresh. It stays open all year.  The menu is short (which is a good sign), and what they do, they do very well. This includes generous portions of girice (small fried fish similar to whitebait), pržene lignje (squid fried in a delicate batter), dagnje na buzaru (fresh mussels prepared with garlic, white wine and parsley), crni rižot (black risotto made from cuttlefish ink), and kamenice (oysters). They’ll also whip up a cheese omelette if someone on your table doesn’t like seafood. Location: Gundulićeva Poljana 8 (in the heart of Old Town, about 2 blocks west of Rector’s Palace).

Outdoor Jazz at Troubador.  On any given night for six months of the year, crowds flock to this intimate enclosed square in the heart of the Old Town to hear live music and soak up the atmosphere.   The most famous bar in town, Troubador was formerly run by Marko Brešković (1942-2010), a one-time bass-player with the Dubrovački Trubaduri and an accomplished jazz musician to boot. Brešković used to preside over nightly jams on the Troubadour's terrace, turning Bunićeva poljana into an essential stop-off on any nocturnal tour of the city. Despite Brešković's departure, the Troubadour remains its old self, with its commitment to live music intact and its traditional clientele still loyal.  Location: Across from Dubrovnik Cathedral.

Day 2: Dubrovnik

Gundulic Square Market.  Another great way to start your day is at Gundulic Square’s vibrant morning market. Fruits, vegetables, flowers, and crafts are all sold here in this traditional and friendly setting. Also worth visiting here is the statue of the square’s namesake, the acclaimed 17th century poet, Ivan Gundulić.  Location: Near Rector’s Palace.

Breakfast: Cele.  Cele serves great palacinke, a Croatian crepe, starting at 10am.  Among the best is the palacinke with ham and cheese.  Location: Cavtatska 11 (on Placa Street, near Luza Square)

Cavtat

Cavtat.  The small harbour town of Cavtat (pronounced "tsavtat") is less than 45 minutes by boat or bus from central Dubrovnik.  Cavtat sits on an attractive harbor with several nice beaches and moorings for yachts during the summer months.  The highlight of the village is its beautiful waterfront promenade full of restaurants, cafes, and ice cream shops.  Spend time exploring Cavtat’s small side streets and relax by the sea.  Location: About 20 kilometers south of Dubrovnik, along the coast.

Banje Beach.  Bathe in sparkling waters or bask in the rays of the sun at Dubrovnik’s premier public beach. Banje is conveniently located beside the Old Town, and benefits from its own café bar and restaurant. Adjacent is the fashionable East West Beach Club, where you can rub shoulders with an ‘attractive crowd of hipsters’, should you so desire.  Location: Frana Supila bb (east of Old Town).

Lunch: Taj Mahal.  Taj Mahal is an authentic Bosnian restaurant in Old Town Dubrovnik.  Here you can try cevapcici, which is a grilled spiced ground meat, usually lamb and veal, shaped into little sticks. Cevapcici are very popular in Dubrovnik, although they are not originally a local custom. Rather, this is a Bosnian delicacy, imported during the time of the Turkish empire and enthusiastically adopted throughout Croatia. Cevapcici are served as a platter with fries, or as a sandwich on a big soft bread roll. You will probably be forgiven for eating cevapcici with ketchup if you really have to, but for a more authentic experience, try them with kajmak (a spread somewhere between butter and cheese), ajvar (a mild red pepper spread) or chopped red onions.  Location: Ulica Nikole Gučetića 2 (a few blocks south of the middle of Placa Street).

Old Port Dubrovnik.  Old Port Dubrovnik is encompassed by two breakwaters: breakwater Porporela in front of St. John Fortress and Kaše breakwater going perpendicular across the port bay.  The walkway along the port and breakwater Porporela were made in the 19th century during the Austrian rule of Dubrovnik.  Breakwater Porporela is said to be a place of lovers as couples usually take romantic walks along this breakwater, sit down on the benches, and enjoy the sea splashing along the length of the breakwater.  Location: Eastern part of Old Town.

Lokrum.  A small, lush, uninhabited yet beautiful island which lies about 700m off Dubrovnik’s spectacular coastline. With just a short 10 minute ferry ride from the port of Old town to Lokrum, this island can provide a few hours of fun in the sun and some nice hikes along Lokrum’s many cliffs. Not only can you spend a couple of hours taking in all of the photo op’s along the cliffs, but Lokrum also houses an old monastery, botanical gardens, beautiful peacocks and a lake called Mrtvo More or the (Dead Sea).  Location:  Catch the ferry in Old Port, at the eastern part of Old Town.

Mount Srd Cable Car.  To get to the Cable car from the Old City you have to go to Buža Street which leads you towards the exit from the city walls. From there you need to keep climbing towards the fire station.  Once you are at the fire station, you need to crossover the street on your right hand side and continue straight up the street. After a few moments you will see the cable car lower station on your right hand side. Tickets can be bought at the lower station of the cable car.  Location: Frana Supila 35a (north of Old Town).

Dinner: Lokanda Peskarija.  The difference between Lokanda and other seafood restaurants in town is the local-to-visitor ratio, which often favors the local crowd. They know to book a table to ensure their lunch of black cuttlefish risotto with prawns.  If you have never had black risotto, you should definitely try this mild rice dish cooked with pieces of cuttlefish and its ink, and served with grated parmesan cheese. Cuttlefish is not actually a fish, but rather a cousin of squid. It doesn't taste fishy at all!  Locals also enjoy chowing down on a hearty plate of fried sardines, finishing with a 'Rozata Dubrovnik' for dessert. Rozata is a traditional Dubrovnik dessert.  It is a cream pudding with caramel sauce similar to Spanish flan.  It is called rozata in Croatia because it was traditionally sweetened with rosewater. This light, sweet dessert is the perfect ending to your meal.  Location: Na Ponti (Old Port area).

Dubrovnik Summer Festival.  If you are lucky enough to be in Dubrovnik at the right time, Croatia's biggest cultural bash is the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, 47 days and nights of classical music, theatre, opera and dance performances around the Old Town. The shows bring Dubrovnik's historic jewels to life. Shakespeare is performed open-air at the Lovrijenac fortress, orchestras play at the Sponza Palace, piano soloists at the Cathedral, ballet takes place after dark outside St. Blaise's Church and all kinds of events have the moonlit City Walls as a backdrop. In all, some 70 venues are used – even Lokrum Island.  Book ahead for the biggest events – for others you can pay at the door. For the most prestigious events, smart dress, although not obligatory, is expected. Also remember that there will be a number of free performances around the streets of Old Town throughout festival time so you needn't have to pay through the nose, or pay at all, to get swept up in the whole event.  Location: All over Old Town.